Monday, 31 December 2007
Bushcraft videos
Maya Sticks - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2kn1-_Xa6b8
Plank hitch knot - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KumHMHJanAU
Saami knife (leuku) - http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=tRl3-dza4VQ
Love the buff!!
Monday, 24 December 2007
The Wilderness knife.
Available from our trading post..............avaialble only to users - collectors need not apply!!
Monday, 10 December 2007
Cold weather Bushcraft - be prepared.
I love the snow and the colder the better but these conditions do create problems for the outdoorsman. Ridged self discipline and organisational skills are most important and a sub-zero enviroment isnt forgiving and doesnt suffer fools easily.
Those joining the Bearclaw team in march will learn this but more importantly they will also get the chance to explore and experience the wonders of a frozen wilderness.
In my opinion there is no better bushcrafting playground - trips to the frozen north of Sweden, Finland or Norway are the brightest gems in my memories of my bushcrafting adventures and as such each is priceless!!
Thanks to the Winter WEISS I'm also very pleased to be able to offer you the chance to harvest such wonderful memories for yourself and as a little teaser (or homework) for those who would like to come, or who are thinking about it, I've attached a little article written by my friend Johan Forsberg of our sister company Nordic Bushcraft.
http://www.bushcraftliving.com/prepareforwinter
And as a besides - the article can be found (as per the Link) on bushcraft living a very good bushcraft forum or on the Bushcraft Educational Society forum - enjoy.
Monday, 3 December 2007
Merry Christmas from the bearclaw boys
Happy Christmas and a bushcrafty new year from ALL the Bearclaw gang!!
Ho ho blummin ho!!
http://www.elfyourself.com/?id=9623925493
Help for Heroes
Being a ex-serviceman myself with friends and family still serving I feel that the good people of Britian need to now take the bull by the horns and try where they can to sort out the mess the Labour government has created with regards to our armed forces.
Today, thanks to medical improvements among other things more soldiers survive injuries which not so long ago they wouldnt have, but thanks to the penny pinching treasury money which was once sent on our troops is now spent ............well you know the story ............
Anyway let me recommend
http://www.helpforheroes.org.uk/
Give what you can - show your support for our brave men and women - what better gift can anyone give at christmas than a small thank you to those who risk their lives so that we can sleep safe in our beds at night!
If the governement and the politicians aren't brave or strong enough to do whats right anymore lets us the people show them what true Brits can do - give today!!
Thanks on behalf of the bearclaw team and all those voiceless
Thursday, 22 November 2007
KNOW YOU SECURITY - DONT LET THE TERRORISTS WIN!!
Also, the French government announced yesterday that it has raised its terror alert level from "Run" to "Hide". The only two higher levels in France are "Collaborate" and "Surrender." The rise was precipitated by a recent fire that destroyed France's white flag factory, effectively paralyzing the country's military capability.
It's not only the English and French who are on a heightened level of alert. Italy has increased the alert level from "Shout loudly and excitedly" to "Elaborate Military Posturing." Two more levels remain: "Ineffective Combat Operations" and "Change Sides."
The Germans also increased their alert state from "Disdainful Arrogance" to "Dress in Uniform and Sing Marching Songs." They also have two higher levels: "Invade a Neighbour" and "Lose".
Belgians, on the other hand, are all on holiday as usual, and the only threat they are worried about is NATO pulling out of Brussels. The Spanish are all excited to see their new submarines ready to deploy. These beautifully designed subs have glass bottoms so the new Spanish navy can get a really good look at the old Spanish navy.
Tuesday, 20 November 2007
BUSHCRAFT SEAX Cont'
The maker has taken up the chalis and now seeks a blade smith of equal ability so watch this space - if we can bring you the best bushcraft camp knife in the world we will - eventually!!
In the mean time heres a few pictures.
Above - picture of the makers prototype with a double hunter Leuku for scale.
Sheath detail of my original prototype (above)
My new user - this is the Bushcraft Seax - scales in Spalted BEECH and cow horn - great Anglosaxon materials with a 3mm veg Tan dangler sheath.
My old mate Tony Collins has a Masur Birch version of this knife and once he's hd time to evaluate I'll see if I can post his views on this blog too!!
And for those of you interested in a hand made Leuku like the other heres a pen picture of the marker -
"Paul (aka: Frenchy), is single minded in the way he sources his materials. When it comes to knife blades in particular, he'll only use the best from the best makers, even if availability is not assured in the long term. As a consequence, with quality and not quantity as his main concern, he admits that it's quite likely that some of his knives would automatically become part of a limited edition! It is to be expected that as he builds each knife by hand personally, there is a limit to how many knives he can produce at a given time. His care and attention to detail can be seen in every knife he makes. Another big asset that Paul has is that he makes available a wide choice of quality materials to satisfy the many preferences people have in Wood, Antler and Horn. Moreover, he's got a canny knack of utilising any combination of materials to produce exceptionally unique knives that are extremely handsome, sturdy and fully functional for their intended use!"
The Leuku's above RRP at about £195 - contact Paul to discuss your choice of scales ect.
paulakafrenchy@talktalk.net
Saturday, 17 November 2007
Follow baggy the bear!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ef-Ji4XmL0o
Thursday, 15 November 2007
Montane Extreme Smock
Sunday, 11 November 2007
Lest we forget
Between the crosses, row on row,
That mark our place: and in the sky
The larks, still bravely singing, fly
Scarce heard amid the guns below.
We are the dead. Short days ago
We lived, felt dawn, saw sunset glow,
Loved and were loved, and now we lie
In Flanders' fields.
Take up our quarrel with the foe;
To you from failing hands we throw
The torch; be yours to hold it high,
If ye break faith with us who die
We shall not sleep,
though poppies growIn Flanders' Fields.
by John McCrea
or
"Please wear a poppy," the lady said,
And held one forth, but I shook my head,
Then I stopped and watched as she offered them there,
And her face was old and lined with care;
But beneath the scars the years had made
There remained a smile that refused to fade.
A boy came whistling down the street,
Bouncing along on care-free feet.
His smile was full of joy and fun,
"Lady," said he, "may I have one?"
When she'd pinned it on, he turned to say;
"Why do we wear a poppy today?
"The lady smiled in her wistful way
And answered; "This is Remembrance Day.
And the poppy there is a symbol for
The gallant men who died in war.
And because they did, you and I are free -
That's why we wear a poppy, you see.
I had a boy about your size,
With golden hair and big blue eyes.
He loved to play and jump and shout,
Free as a bird, he would race about.
As the years went by, he learned and grew,
And became a man - as you will, too.
He was fine and strong, with a boyish smile,
But he'd seemed with us such a little while
When war broke out and he went away.
I still remember his face that day.
When he smiled at me and said, 'Goodbye,
I'll be back soon, Mum, please don't cry.
'But the war went on and he had to stay,
And all I could do was wait and pray.
His letters told of the awful fight
(I can see it still in my dreams at night),
With the tanks and guns and cruel barbed wire,
And the mines and bullets, the bombs and fire.
Till at last, at last, the war was won -
And that's why we wear a poppy, son.
"The small boy turned as if to go,
Then said: "Thanks, lady, I'm glad to know.
I slunk away in a sort of shame,
And if you were me, you'd have done the same:
For our thanks, in giving, if oft delayed,
Though our freedom was bought - and thousands paid!
And so, when we see a poppy worn,
Let us reflect on the burden borne
By those who gave their very all
When asked to answer their country's call
That we at home in peace might live.
Then wear a poppy! Remember - and Give!
by Don Crawford
Friday, 9 November 2007
KIT list and suppliers
Comprehensive Kit List
(Including suppliers list)
The below is a list of the typical items carried by the bearclaw team during our courses and various adventures.
It builds upon the generic course kit list and is designed to give you a more detailed list including the websites of the various suppliers we would recommend.
Please mention Bearclaw Bushcraft when contacting any of the suppliers listed below.
Clothing –
Under wear
Underpants – cotton summer/winter
T/shirt – cotton is fine for summer. Winter opt for Montane Terra, Icebreaker or layering via the Ullsfrotte range to avoid chilling.
http://www.snowandrock.co.uk/
http://www.bearclawbushcraft.co.uk/
Shirt
Shirt – cotton for the summer
Micro fleece for wet/cold or a Army Norgee is ok for dry cold climate
http://www.craghoppers.co.uk/
Thermal layer
Montane Extreme Smock - this is my year round top perfect for all conditions as a solo layer or as layering.
Snugpak make two thermal mid-layer jackets – the elite pile (cold/wet) or the Sleeka elite (dry/wet) – requires a natural fibre outer layer if working around campfires
http://www.bearclawbushcraft.co.uk/
Trousers
Greenlander, Forester or Barents trousers by Fjellraven as all top quality robust trousers – the professionals choice
http://www.bearclawbushcraft.co.uk/
Windproof/outer layer
British Antarctic survey smock, tough Ventile jacket, well designed with plenty of pockets. Windproof, fire safe and shower proof - recommended
http://www.bearclawbushcraft.co.uk/
Socks
General wear wool socks are best as these are warm even when wet. Ullsfrotte are good – British army socks are also a favourite
http://www.nordicoutdoor.co.uk/
Gloves
Leather work gloves offer some elemental protection and are useful around the fire. Mekralon or thermal liners enhance these is cold weather. In extreme cold woollen mittens inside leather chopper mittens are robust and warm.
http://www.nordicbushcraft.com/
or
http://www.nordicbushcraft.se/
Boots
General purpose good all rounds are Rogue boots. For wet climates rogues can be worn with Sealskinz socks but Lundhags are a great choice also.
http://www.unbeatentrack.co.uk/
http://www.penrithsurvival.co.uk/
Head gear
For sunny climate Tiley hats or boonie hats in cotton with brims work well. For colder conditions woollen watch caps like the Ullsfrotte Luva are best. For woodlands and general wear the Fjallraven range of hats or caps is recommended.
http://www.thegorgoeoutdoors.co.uk/
http://www.bearclawbushcraft.co.uk/
Waterproof
By far the most versatile waterproof item a bushcrafter can use is the poncho – adapting from waterproof to shelter to a million things in between – highly recommended are the genuine US army ponchos with the Fjallraven coming in a close second
http://www.strikeforcesupplies.co.uk/
Call Jasper and ask for a genuine US poncho.
Possibles
Belt
A strong wide belt which can be used as a tool suspension system, lash, and strap for carrying firewood ect is ideal – this is not used to hold up trousers!!
http://www.attacc.com/ (Brady belt)
http://www.bearclawbushcraft.co.uk/
Cutting Tool
For the novice we recommend a medium (100mm) bladed knife like the Frosts Mora or Clipper.
For the more experienced or those travelling further a field a large camp knife like the Wilderness knife is a wiser choice as this knife is designed to do fine carving as well as chopping and splitting
A small folding knife such as those made by Opinel are great utility tools and ideal for kitchen tasks
http://www.nordicoutdoor.co.uk/
http://www.bearclawbushcraft.co.uk/
http://www.customknivesandsticks.co.uk/index.htm
Possibles Pouch
A Possibles belt pouch contains all those essential items we need to survive – call it the backwoodsman’s survival kit its worn on the belt with our cutting tool – thus in theory if we strip down to a underwear we should still be able to wear our belt in case of an emergency.
http://www.bearclawbushcraft.co.uk/
Spoon
Wooden – hand made by you!
Sharpening
Stone and mini steel – are best for the field, used to top up the edge on your cutting tools. The Fallkniven DC range works well but can be very coarse. Mini-steels are ideal for adding a micro secondary bevel especially for game preparation.
http://www.madbearoutdoors.co.uk/
Compass
A compass with a whistle attached and the knowledge of how to use both is essential.
Matches
Non-safety matches carried in a old camera film case are a versatile emergency back up to your fire lighting kit
Swan Vesta – were available
Flint bar
Carry your ferro rod (Jukka stick being the original or a fireball) in a rubberised tinder pouch (tobacco skin) – this means your fire lighting kit is to hand and that damp tinder can breath or be dried by body heat if carried in the pocket.
http://www.nordicbushcraft.se/
Insect repellent
Nordic summer is a favourite – life systems pump DEET sprays are strong and effective
http://www.raymears.com/
http://www.nomadtravel.co.uk/
First Aid kit
A small cuts kit should be carried whenever you carry your knife – a military First field dressing (FFD) is a good back up – make the kit yourself to meet your ability and needs.
Para cord
Genuine 550 is the best but hemp or natural cordage is ideal as it will degrade if left in the woods.
Torch
A Maglite or Petzl Tikka Head torch are a good well tried and tested choice.
http://www.maglite-torches.co.uk/
Field and Camping gear
Water bottle
Nalgene bottles are tough and well thought out – wide mouthed allowing better re-hydration as well as being easier to refill from tap or stream.
Sleeping bag
One season – Snugpak Jungle bag (synthetic)
2/3 Season Fjellraven Distance 5 (down)
3/4 Season Snugpak Elite 3 (synthetic)
http://www.naturestrails.co.uk/
Sleeping mat
Therma-rest is without a doubt our favourite but for the base camp nothing bests the comfort of a reindeer skin.
Bivi bag
Light weight Snugpak bivi bag is a good choice but if size matter the Alpkit bivi bags has been found to carry favour with the team here. Bombproof and long lasting the genuine British army bivi bag is a perennial favourite but ensure is genuine and not a cheap copy.
http://www.alpkit.com/
Basha
The Kathmandu tarp is light yet robust – our favourite without a doubt
http://home.freeuk.net/kathmandu/
Cookware
Swedish army mess kit
http://www.nordicoutdoor.se/
Rucksack
Fjellraven Vintage 20lt is an excellent top spec day sack. (the new 30lt will be even better!!)
Karrimor Sabre 45 – weekend pack
Karrimor Sabre 75 – Top spec well designed and highly respected full sized pack
http://www.bearclawbushcraft.co.uk/
http://www.naturestrails.co.uk/
Spare clothing
Spare clothing should include a change of clothing which can be worn if your normal layers get soaked – it can also include task specific clothing such as waterproof socks or
http://www.craghoppers.co.uk/
http://www.johnbull.com/
Luxuries
Cameras – books – mobile phones.
Tuesday, 6 November 2007
Its small, warm and light - but dont like the damp!!
Fjellraven Distance P5. – Few things in Bushcraft are more valuable than a good nights sleep and thanks to the Fjellraven Distance P5 down sleeping bag this is easily obtainable.
Soon to be available from the trading post for just £87.99 - complete with storage bag for airing and stuff sack.
Friday, 19 October 2007
Details
Active cut with drop tail
Large pouch pocket with accessory attachment ring
DWR Beardguard lined collar
Part elasticated self fabric cuffs with hook and loop adjustment
Reinforced elbows
Glove attachment loops on forearms
Generous neck zip with hook and loop storm baffle
MONTANE® Cross-Vent system
Two-way zipped side vents with storm baffle
Hook and loop adjustable hem
Removable crotch strap
Removable, fully specified, single hand adjustable, pile-lined hood with wired peak
Colours: Black (With self-coloured logo), Olive (With self-coloured logo), Red (Main Image)
RRP £80.00
Fabric
Outer: PERTEX® 6- 69g/m² lightweight Nylon 6.6 plain weave- Breathable to 98%- Dense weave gives a wind resistance of 1ft³/min- Water repellent with a spray rating of grade 4Reinforcements: POLAR-DRI® mini-rip- Coated high tenacity textured Nylon rip-stop- 85% breathable- Water repellent- Suited to applications where durability and breathability are keyLining - DRYACTIV® 3000 Pile- Polyester fibre pile- Excellent inherent wicking- High warmth to weight ratio
Weight
875g / 31oz: Medium
Tuesday, 16 October 2007
Vildmark in the Sunday Mirror
In particular the fact that soon we'll be able to fly from Stanstead to Karlstad - with collection from there - making traveling to and from the courses much much easier!!
Enjoy
http://www.sundaymirror.co.uk/news/homesandholidays/holidays/2007/08/26/life-is-swede-98487-19682361/
Friday, 5 October 2007
Cutting tool Maintenance
You are only as sharp as your knife - or a blunt knife is a screw driver!
Below is a little refresher on knife maint - as with all things shrafting theres more than one way to skin a cat but the below are skills which work for me and are most common among experienced outdoorsfolk.
Sharpening.
The best set up for sharpening a flat bevel knife involves 2-3 grades of honing stone.-
Course – 800 grit-
Medium – 1000 grit-
Very fine 6000 grit
A very course 250 grit may sometimes be used for restoration work.
At home the best set up for a novice is.- 2 sided India Oil stone made from Aluminium Oxide.
The coarseness is determined by the binding Agent but generally these stones consist of a course and medium side. I often use these to take off secondary bevels and to repair 'dinks' students make in there tools.Arkansas stones are mined from sedimentary rock in Arkansas (hence the name) and are usually fine and very fine. Arkansas stones are the best naturally occurring stones in the world.
Other useful items –- Steel, as used by butchers. These are used in the field to produce a micro scopic secondary bevel which gives our edge a more robust finished profile. Be aware a steel does really sharpen your blade it just re-aligns the teeth!
Strop – leather strop like you see in the barbers shop (or an old leather belt) are used to finish the edge before use and as such remove the microscopic wire created by the sharpening process.
Other products - Japanese Water stones.- Excellent for producing a superior edge but expensive lacking longevity- Made from rare clays impregnated with crushed seashells which are ground together and recompressed.- To use soak in water until the fizzing stops- Soft will not survive rough handles.Weston Water stones.- Basically cheaper copies of the above- More robust and hard wearing- Don’t hold so much water.*note water stones will shatter at below 0 degrees.
Diamond Whetstone- Rip away a lot of steel very quickly- Can Ruin your knife fast!
Ceramic stones- Superheated clays to recreate a volcanic type rock.- Too hard – take a long time to produce an edge but are good as steels (improvised)-
ExpensiveOil stones- Robust- Used will oil- Very good – a favourite old trooper!
Sharpening Techniques
Field sharpening.- Cut down water stones or small pocket Arkansas stone- Sit cross legged and place on shoe to use.- No ideal system but generally I'd recommend taking the stone to the blade always ensuring fingers are kept clear of the cutting edge!Base camp sharpening- Here we use our oil or water stone as follows,
Place stone on a flat surface
Lubricate stone (if a water stone soak in water until it stops fizzing the keep wet - never cross lubricate i.e oil on water or vica versa - and for field use always use water as some time or another the only lub' your have handy is spit!) This is to enable the microspoic metal filings to be carried away from the pours on the stone.
Lay knife flat onto stonestarting at near the handle as possible.
Tilt up the blade until the bevel is flat on the stone.
using gentle downward pressure slide the blade (as if slicing of a thin layer) down the stone - starting at the handle but ending the motion at the tip.
If nec' round the tip slightly to ensure full contact with the stone.
Do this intially 6 times one one then reverse and do the same towards yourself 6 times.
Keep repeating this process until were happy the edge is getting sharper.
Now start to reduce the strokes each side - come down from 6 to 4 to 3 to 2 and then 1
once on 1 stroke each side to this at least 10 times to weaken the wire (the wire is a very fine strip of metal which builds up as we wear away each side of the blade during sharpening if its not removed it will snap of in use and dull the edge.)
Once we're happy the edge is sharp we move to the strop - the strop will remove the wire for use.
Strop in a reverse motion to sharpening - minimum of 50 strokes each way.
Job done test the blade as described.
Stropping – as pointed out above stropping removes the fine wire edge that is built up by the sharpening process. The wire edge makes your knife ‘feel’ sharp but if it is not removed by stropping it will break off in use taking the knife edge with it.
Ideally strop your knife 50 times on each side.
Testing your edge.
Paper test, shave hairs off arm or use thumbnail.
The thumnail test is best - to do this drag your cutting edge across the HARD part of your thumb nail - if your knife is sharp you will feel it biting into the nail - any dull spots will slide without resistance.
Now we have a sharp cutting tool we will look at how to use it SAFELY!!
Maintenance
Care of your cutting tool can be as simple or as complicated as you like - it also reflects usage. If you use your knife often it requires less care as it will be constantly maintained in use - resharpened cleaned ect ect - so for our now let us consider the knife as if it were going into storage or likely not to be used for some months.
Firstly sharpen the knife, even those its not going to be used sharpening it will clean the cutting edge.
Next if the blade has a good patina on it already down scrub it off - the staining and discolouration a carbon blade picks up in use protects the blade from corrosition so leave it on - like wise I often add patina by coating the blade in organic Balsamic vinger and leaving it a few hours - the vinger darkens the blade and this blackening also helps protect the blade!!
So whether the blades work stained or not (bear in mind that doesnt mean covered in dirty. veg matter or anything else - if thats the case wash the blade to clean) we now are wise to oil it - riflte oil is best for this jub but I appreciate most people cant access gun oil so lightly use any oil available - again bear in mind if you use the knife for food prep you might not want to coat it in motot oil!!
Leave the oil to 'soak' in for a while then wipe off the access.
Depending on the scale material we can either give them a light coat of oil (wood ect) or just clean with a damp cloth (plastic ect)
Now heres a bone of contention - once the knifes clean give the sheath a once over - if its clean, in good repair and dry slide the knif ehime and store until next wanted.
Why is that contentious because some people think you shouldnt store your knife in the sheath as the leather might stretch or mositure might damage the blade - ya right - as long as the sheathes dry and the storage place is dry damp isnt going to be a problem - as for the stretching issue - same thing the leather is only gonna stretch from usage or is damp - I always store my knives in the sheath and have never had any problems.
Hope that helps - any questions please feel free to ask.
Wednesday, 3 October 2007
The bushcraft ideal
Or I'm going on the bearclaw Tenderfoot course HELP!
In Military survival for example the ideal is that you learn to survive and avoid capture with the minimum of kit - the survival tin and all the Rambo type gear of recent years are just gimmicks to catch the stupid out as most soldiers know that unless you escape within the first 24 hours or less of capture you will be processed and in being processed not only can you expect to be beaten senseless you will also be stripped of everything useful - Geneva convention stated IPK to be left ect but I doubt some of those we fight these days can read or have even heard of the Geneva convention.
But Bushcraft - woodcraft - wildernes sliving is different ................isnt it?
So what are our ideals?
Personally speaking I think of 'the craft' as being something that gives me the ability to go into the wilderness kitted out with a knife, a blanket and cook pot and being able to live comfortably.
Of course I have trained myself to be able to do without each of these items but then I would consider that a survival situation as the priorities are different.
And being able to to live happily with just a knife - blanket - cook pot doesnt mean I want to do it all the time. Although I do like to keep my kit down to a minimum at all times especially as we see so many people burdened with all sorts of unnessacary junk but I digress.
So if the ideal of bushcraft is to be able to go out equipped as above (forget the moden trend of carrying a axe, saw kitchen sink ect) and live with nature comfortably surely the three key items we carry are important - so lets consider these.
Knife - your knife is your life and in this case never has it been closer to the truth, so whats the best knife? The best knife is the knife you feel confident in using and can use to the best of your ability. But a knife should be able cover a variety of needs (forget the modern bushcraft knife with its 4" blade and spear point tip - much copied and never seen used outside the bushcraft clique circle - unless you have mastered it in all its fine detail ALL native people and those with experience generally go for something a little bigger) and more importantly should enable us to make a tool to meet our needs if we done carry it.
For example a knife at a minimum should be good for,
- Chopping - wood for shelter - fire - bone
- Carving - we need to fashion tools and trap triggers so fine control is important
- Splitting - either with a baton or more axe like
- Butchering game
- Food prep
- Any one of a million other tasks it might be called upon to do
Ideally our knife should do all the above with ease, in a safe manner with the minimum of effort. It should be easily maintainable in the field and strong.
EQUALLY - the sheath its carried in most be just as good - for a knife is only as good as its sheath!
Blanket - a blankets a blanket isnt it? Well no, not for our purposes. Here we need to consider warmth to weight ratios - fire safety and durablility.
The old Whitby blankets or hudsons bay point blankets were favourites among the Indians and trappers of the 1800's as they had all the above characteristics - but they are bulky and quite heavy!
A US army poncho liner is light, not as warm maybe but not effected by the damp and quick drying - its down side is care must be taken near the fire.
Fleece blankets - again are similar to the Poncho Liner.
A wool polymide blanket would be lighter but more fire friendly.
Also size matter - a single blanket is ok as a top cover or ground sheet in the right conditions but a double blanket would be bulkier but more versatile.
Lastly a space blanket will reflect back body heat - it can be incorperated into the back of the shelter as a fire reflector - but it isnt in itself warm.
Cook ware - of all the modern items the native americans covetted the most the metal cook pot was top on their list - imagine how hard life was without one!
So what should we look for in a pot -
- Size - the bigger the better as we can cook a small meal in a big pot but if we have to purify all our water a small pot isnt fuel and effort effecient.
- Bail arm - if we can hang it over a fire it means we can slow cook foods like stews without the risk of burning the food.
- Wide base - the wider the bottom the better heat is distributed and the quicker it cooks again minimising the risk of burning
- Materials - ali or steel - your choice on what ect
- Thickness - some pots (the stainless mess kit for example) have bombproof thickness - and while it could be argued once hot that stay hot longer - it could also be argued they are heavy and require more calories to carry and more fuel to heat.
- Other bits - is the lid a fry pan, a plate? Does it double as a cup?
- Plastic bits - does it have plastic handles or rim which could melt in the fire?
A pot isnt just a pot we need to think carefully about it.
So those are our key items - I hope they have been food for thought.
And as anyone who has done our Tenderfoot course will tell they maybe be simply items but with these alone the trained person can live like a king!!
Sunday, 30 September 2007
Traditional Crook knife
We've all watch Ray Mears in his series Bushcraft making a beautiful Birch bark caneo and we've all heard Ray praising the crook knife for its ability to carve wood to a plain shavingly smooth finish.
Well recently my mate Frenchy made me a traditional crook knife for me to play with - and mightly impressed I am with it too.
Its my belief that the Native Americans first obtained crook knives from the early pioneers and european settles in trade - logic tells me that the natives wanted steel tools but the whites fearing giving them proper cutting tools which they could easily use as weapons traded old farrier hoof knives with them instead and this is what Paul has used for this tool too. The blade is a frost mora farriers blade so (excuse the pun) it comes from a good blade making stable!
To this paul has attached a fist sized lump of antler which fits my hand perfectly. Remember the crook knife is designed to be used in the draw method of carving so the handle needs to fit the hand backwoods (if that males sense)
Anyway slightly dull from the packet I sharpened the blade (sharpening only on the flat unbeveled side and soon had it razor sharp and ready to carve with. I carve a spoon from start to finish with this fantastic looking and aesthetically pleasing tool with no problems what so ever - all it took was a little time to accustom myself to gripping the tool in a different maner to that which Im used to.
Overall very pleased with it - I found an old sheath for it and now its my only carving tool - well after my main knife of course.
If you'd be interested in obtaining a hand made - unique - beautiful yet practical tool like this please contact Frenchy direct ..........remember to mention Bearclaw when you do and he'll ensure you get service and a tool second to none - contact piuspaul@fenech0.wanado.co.uk
Thursday, 20 September 2007
Whats new?
So whats new?
Firstly my mate Frenchy is now producing some cracking traditional crook knives - Mora blades mounted in the materials of your choice and designed to be used in the traditional manner as a draw knife. With a little practice they can also be easily adapted for use in spoon carving - one knife for the whole job cant be a bad think!!
Also were pleased to announce that in the waning months of last year we contacted Fjallraven and suggested they make a 45 litre version of their 20 litre Vintage sack (a excellent sack which is the choice of the whole bearclaw team!!) - anyway the guys at Fjellraven took this on board and we are pleased to announce they will be arriving/released in Feb 2008 - this is excellent news as these really are the best sacks I've every come across!
I'm working on a couple of articles too - one about Knife and cutting tool care - the other is a picturial on the classic rabbit stew cooked over the fire.
Hope this brief update has wetted your appetite - see you soon.
Wednesday, 22 August 2007
Coming soon the new Wilderness knife
The Wilderness traveller needs to be able to rely on their cutting tool. Simply put they need an implement which will never let them down. They need a tool large and strong enough to offer them maximum mechanical advantage for chopping while remaining light and flexible enough for fine carving. The Wilderness knife’s 3mm thick blade is perfectly balanced at the junction of the blade and scales making it agile and highly manoeuvrable in the hand for fine work while the classically shaped Leuku style 7 inch blade is differentially hardened by multiple edge-quenching (meaning it will hold its edge well while the spine still remains malleable enough to avoid breakage during heavy usage *due to this factor use with a fire steel is limited) and oil quenched to approximately 56 Rockwell C so is ideal for chopping and excellent for splitting yet also easily re-sharpened to a stunning razor edge.
In looks this fine knife captures the romance of the Mountain man era having the classical lines and sheath design of a fur trapper’s butcher knife while still maintaining the strong functionality of the Saami reindeer knife (Leuku).
Unlike its Scandinavian cousins this knife has a full tang which is fitted with tough English Oak scales secured via peined over steel rivets (much stronger than brass) giving the tool both a home grown feel as well as superior strength in use.
A functional handmade knife which also comes with a luxurious handmade 3mm chestnut brown tanned leather sheath mounted on a brass O ring swivel and a belt loop capable of taking belts up to 2”. All in all a tough workhorse of a tool.
Being handmade their may be a slight delay of a couple of weeks on orders during busy periods.
Saturday, 18 August 2007
Monday, 13 August 2007
Coming soon - Kuksa
The traditional handmade wooden Kuksa has become a bushcraft icon, a symbol of style and oneness with nature as well as being thermally efficient (drinks do not cool quickly in cold weather and there is no chill factor of skin on cold metal either!) and aesthetically pleasing. Top quality and ready to use these natural shaped Kuksa’s come all the way from Arctic Finland where the birch burls used to make these luxurious cups are hand selected and being formed by nature each one is totally unique in shape, size and colouration. Sizes available are Medium - approximately coffee cup size and Large - anything over this. (Sizes may vary as we can only supply that which nature provides.) Rare, distinctive and utterly one of a kind your hand made Kuksa can only grow better with age and usage soon becoming a trusted fireside companion. Natural form Kuksa’s make ideal gifts for the bushcrafter who has everything!!
*All Kuksa’s are hand made and made to order – as such some delays may be experienced in orders as the woodsman needs to go out and select them individually – we will of course keep a small stock when available
Tuesday, 31 July 2007
Woollen Capote, traditional bushcrafting wear
Something’s just sing of the fur trade era, they typify the Mountain man and his hardy, free life style. Things like the Hawken Rifle, the butcher or camp knife and the Woollen Capote.
While I now have the perfect butcher/camp knife I still aspire to own a 50 calibre Hawken rifle and am now the very pleased owner of a Woollen Capote.
Traditionally made from one blanket the Capote (a corruption of a French word meaning coat or cape) was torn or cut with a knife (Indians didn’t have scissors) and then stitched in one of many various style.
Cut and sewn for warmth and ease of motivation these fantastically warm coats look a little bulky when new but are actually very unrestrictive making them as Ideal now for the bushcrafter as they were 200 years ago.
Being made from almost one entire blanket they are a little bulky to roll and carry when new but they have many pro’s to out weigh this slight negative point – of course they can be worn for warmth, around the campfire they are safe and will not melt if accidentally burnt. Being wool they remain warm even if soaked for up to 6 days!! But they are also the ideal overnighting blanket being big enough to roll yourself in for a warm cosy nights sleep!!
Originally Capotes were made from Hudson Bay blankets and the blankets had a point system. So highly prized where they that a 4 point blanket (with 4 small black lines on one edge denoting its points) was equal to or traded for 4 beaver pelts.
Available in various colours I opted for a nice red one and looking like Father Christmas aside love the rich scarlet colour. Hand made but machine sewn my Capote is a quality item cheaper in price and more traditional to the 'shrafting' ethos than later items such as Swannis.
Now available from the Good old US of A see the links column of the bearclaw website for the maker’s details.
http://www.bearclawbushcraft.co.uk/links.htm
Sunday, 22 July 2007
Stop that roaring its getting boring!!
Beneath the lone oak tree,
I wondered at the world around,
And what bushcraft meant to me.
Bushcraft is a treasure chest,
Of skills and Lores of old,
Its freedom from the mundane world,
It’s JUST living for the bold.
It’s not some silly romantic dream,
Or having the most expensive knife,
It’s not chatting on some forum,
Causing trouble, wrecking lives.
The petty politics we find in life,
In the bush should have no place,
It’s for the love of nature,
If you’ve got a problem say it to their face.
Bushcraft is for the gentle soul,
It’s for the hardest man,
It’s seeing the world with a child’s sweet eyes,
And being the best you can.
It’s wonder and it’s beauty,
It’s a zone that’s lie and EGO free,
It’s the silent woods with dew wet leaves,
Not sitting by some PC.
As I sat beneath my Oak and watched the slow sun rise,
I saw another truth and watched world unfold before my very eyes.
And as I sat in quiet reflection part of natures scheme,
I knew within my heart of hearts it wasn’t just a dream.
And that is what Bushcraft is to me its escaping from the world,
It’s escaping the petty politics, escaping jealous words,
It’s understanding our place within natures rich tapestry,
And I hope one day you’ll taste the truth and sit ‘neath mine Oak with me.
Saturday, 14 July 2007
Kodi the bearclaw totem
“We learn the ways of life from the Bear; it revealed the potato to us when we watched it dig it up from the ground and eat it. If you watch and follow the bear, you can gain much knowledge. “
Native American shaman describing mans relationship with the bear.
Throughout history the Bear has been a significant creature, a symbol of raw courage and power both admired and feared by man. It is not without good reason that the heavenly guardian of the wandering traveller, Ursa Major – the great Bear, points to the North Star as an ever watchful sentinel boldly guiding our way through even in the darkest night .
The wise men of America’s first nation knew full well that whatever Bear will eat is good for humans too. It may not be socially acceptable to eat the insects that Bear finds under trees, but they would not do us any harm it we did and like us when Bear goes looking for fish, he doesn’t look for the perch, he looks for the salmon and the trout - the best! When he goes looking for the berries, the ones he chooses to eat are all the ones that are good for us humans too. When Bear has a head ache he sits and rubs a willow tree, scratching off its bark and eating it. The wise old men saw this and when they had a head ache they copied Bear and their head aches disappeared for willow bark contains the active ingredients of aspirin.
Like the wisest of our ancestors we would do well to learn from Bear and all our cousin creatures be they great or small - We should learn to look for the Bear necessities.
This is why Bearclaw Bushcraft has adopted the Bear Totem, for we like all our students and friends, would know the wisdom the wise ones who went before us. We would learn to travel by the Great Bear’s ever guiding light and in so doing learn the lessons that he would teach us about nature and the natural world around us.
Friday, 13 July 2007
The shrafters lost love
She wanted me to wear a suit
With Gucci shoes and tie.
She wanted me to drink red wine,
And live the modern lie.
She wanted more than I could give,
And so she walked away.
She didn’t see the man I am,
My love of soil and sky.
Where mountains kiss the valleys deep,
Where dapple shadows dance.
She’d never know the joy I feel,
She never had a chance.
So her wine bars and flashy clothes,
I told her she could keep.
I’m a simple man with simple dreams,
I bathe in crystal lakes so deep.
The sad and scary cityscape,
Is dark and blots the sky,
Give me the woods in pastel greens,
More pleasing to the eye.
So I lost my love that day,
Yet greater was the prize.
I lost the warmth of her soft breast,
Yet beauty fills my eyes!!
Thursday, 12 July 2007
Dull the steel which once shone bright,
The wear of age its shining light.
Companion, comfort, trusted friend,
By my side until the end.
We travelled cross the world so wide,
Cross field and flood, through wood and tide,
Your edge so sure, your grip so right,
Silent friend both day and night.
Worn now your wooden scales,
Dark with use and age,
Yet bright they lay in my minds eye,
Oh, silent companion to me.
To any task without complaint,
To any toil you’d leap,
Craving spoons or trigger traps,
Treasured gifts to keep.
Smile my little metal friend,
Your service I still need,
Hark, the woods they whisper there,
The forests call we’ll heed!
Tuesday, 10 July 2007
This is the Law of the Yukon, that only the Strong shall thrive;
That surely the Weak shall perish, and only the Fit survive.
Dissolute, damned and despairful, crippled and palsied and slain,
This is the Will of the Yukon, -- Lo, how she makes it plain!
Robert Service – Law of the Yukon
The Arctic and sub Arctic climate is one of the worlds most beautiful yet most dangerous however it is also this pristine wilderness which offers the brave bushcrafter a chance to challenge them self as well as to extend their knowledge and abilities whilst studying new skills in a winter wonderland with dream like magnificence.
Phase Two of the Wilderness Experience International Survival School programme is only open to those who have completed the Initial WEISS temperate course or have achieved advanced skills via similar training or experience elsewhere as the course itself, while different from the WEISS temperate in as much as it’s a 100% learning course, is no less testing and is equally as challenging.
Predominantly run upon the Frozen lakes and in Boreal Pines forests which cover the rolling hills around Riksviken Sweden as well as the WEISS classroom this well established courses covers such skills as,
· Snow Shoe travel and Navigation
· Using a Snow mobile (snow go to our Swedish friends)
· Ice Fishing
· Snow shelters
· Fire lighting in extreme conditions – where your life can truly depend on it.
· Clothing
· Survival and general skills for minus temperature living
· Edible/Utility plants and resources common to Arctic/Sub Arctic lands.
· Cross country travel man hauling sleds
Upon completing this course you will have earned the Winter bar, a badge which can be worn above the much coveted WEISS badge, a sign of distinction, a sign that you are now a highly skilled, motivated and knowledgeable outdoors person who stands head and shoulders above their peers – simply put ‘The Best of the Best’
As with WEISS there is no kit list given and students, being at an advance level, are required to bring the appropriate equipment however you should be aware specialist items will be loaned to you.
Course size is limited to a Maximum of 10 Students
Saturday, 23 June 2007
WEISS COURSE
Established in 1956 the Wilderness Experience International Survival School has trained explorers, soldiers and top outdoorsfolk from all over the world.
The distinctive 5 sided badge is worn with pride by many renown individuals, earned through hard work and skill this badge speaks volumes of the wearer, a wearer who without a doubt has proudly joined the bushcraft Elite
Wednesday, 20 June 2007
Weiss and Vildmark 2007
http://www.nordicbushcraft.com/course_pics/weiss2007/
http://www.nordicbushcraft.com/course_pics/vildmark2007/
Note - no images or any inform or details from these images are to be used or copied without the express permission of the owner - Johan Forsberg.
Images are for information/pleasure only and not for reproduction.
Sunday, 20 May 2007
Custom Opinel with neck sheath
Presently only trading on ebay the makers is a really friendly chap who will customise the Opinel in one of a variety of materials, horn, antler woods of all shapes and colours ect - a great deal, on a great knife which is without a doubt 100% a bushcrafters best friend. Plus you also get a great leather neck sheath and matching customized firesteel - which castes top rate sparks from the Opinels hard squared off spine - truely a winning combination!!
You can contact the makers at piuspaul@fenech0.wanadoo.co.uk or drop me a line at www.bearclawbushcraft.co.uk
Tuesday, 15 May 2007
The wild bushcrafter song
Cracking song and cool Buff!!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ef-Ji4XmL0o
Thursday, 10 May 2007
Excerp from a review of the Fasach Ile course.
Monday, 7 May 2007
Bushcraft Basics part 2
Sharpening.
The best set up for sharpening a flat bevel knife involves 2-3 grades of honing stone.
- Course – 800 grit
- Medium – 1000 grit
- Very fine 6000 grit
A very course 250 grit may sometimes be used for restoration work.
At home the best set up for a novice is.
- 2 sided India Oil stone made from Aluminium Oxide. The coarseness is determined by the binding Agent but generally these stones consist of a course and medium side. I often use these to take off secondary bevels and to repair 'dinks' students make in there tools.
Arkansas stones are mined from sedimentary rock in Arkansas (hence the name) and are usually fine and very fine. Arkansas stones are the best naturally occurring stones in the world.
Other useful items –
- Steel, as used by butchers. These are used in the field to produce a micro scopic secondary bevel which gives our edge a more robust finished profile. Be aware a steel does really sharpen your blade it just re-aligns the teeth!
- Strop – leather strop like you see in the barbers shop (or an old leather belt) are used to finish the edge before use and as such remove the microscopic wire created by the sharpening process.
Other products
Japanese Water stones.
- Excellent for producing a superior edge but expensive lacking longevity
- Made from rare clays impregnated with crushed seashells which are ground together and recompressed.
- To use soak in water until the fizzing stops
- Soft will not survive rough handles.
Weston Water stones.
- Basically cheaper copies of the above
- More robust and hard wearing
- Don’t hold so much water.
*note water stones will shatter at below 0 degrees.
Diamond Whetstone
- Rip away a lot of steel very quickly
- Can Ruin your knife fast!
Ceramic stones
- Superheated clays to recreate a volcanic type rock.
- Too hard – take a long time to produce an edge but are good as steels (improvised)
- Expensive
Oil stones
- Robust
- Used will oil
- Very good – a favourite old trooper!
Sharpening Techniques
Field sharpening.
- Cut down water stones or small pocket Arkansas stone
- Sit cross legged and place on shoe to use.
- No ideal system but generally I'd recommend taking the stone to the blade always ensuring fingers are kept clear of the cutting edge!
Base camp sharpening
- Here we use our oil or water stone as follows,
- Place stone on a flat surface
- Lubricate stone (if a water stone soak in water until it stops fizzing the keep wet - never cross lubricate i.e oil on water or vica versa - and for field use always use water as some time or another the only lub' your have handy is spit!) This is to enable the microspoic metal filings to be carried away from the pours on the stone.
- Lay knife flat onto stonestarting at near the handle as possible.
- Tilt up the blade until the bevel is flat on the stone.
- using gentle downward pressure slide the blade (as if slicing of a thin layer) down the stone - starting at the handle but ending the motion at the tip.
- If nec' round the tip slightly to ensure full contact with the stone.
- Do this intially 6 times one one then reverse and do the same towards yourself 6 times.
- Keep repeating this process until were happy the edge is getting sharper.
- Now start to reduce the strokes each side - come down from 6 to 4 to 3 to 2 and then 1
- once on 1 stroke each side to this at least 10 times to weaken the wire (the wire is a very fine strip of metal which builds up as we wear away each side of the blade during sharpening if its not removed it will snap of in use and dull the edge.)
- Once we're happy the edge is sharp we move to the strop - the strop will remove the wire for use.
- Strop in a reverse motion to sharpening - minimum of 50 strokes each way.
Job done test the blade as described.
Stropping – as pointed out above stropping removes the fine wire edge that is built up by the sharpening process. The wire edge makes your knife ‘feel’ sharp but if it is not removed by stropping it will break off in use taking the knife edge with it.
Ideally strop your knife 50 times on each side.
Testing your edge.
Paper test, shave hairs off arm or use thumbnail.
The thumnail test is best - to do this drag your cutting edge across the HARD part of your thumb nail - if your knife is sharp you will feel it biting into the nail - any dull spots will slide without resistance.
Now we have a sharp cutting tool we will look at how to use it SAFELY!!
Thursday, 3 May 2007
Fasach Ile
Tuesday, 27 February 2007
I left my heart in Finland
I left my heart in Finland mid the snow and the tower spruce tree,